Friday, July 25. 2008
Back at the loom again

Here I am, back at the loom, after a long (too long) pause.
There was a time (gosh...almost 20 years ago!) when weaving was my main textile activity. Looking back, I‘m even a little surprised at all the things I wove – curtains, rugs, fabric for clothing (for myself and for the other members of the family), blankets, wall-hangings, etc., etc. I used many different types of fibers (wool, cotton, linen, rag strips), but almost entirely natural fibers. I even sold things occasionally and, strangely enough, that was sort of the beginning of the end.
The laws here in Germany concerning craftspeople and who can and who can‘t sell their products are very strict. Germany has a hundreds-year-old craftmen‘s tradtion. If you work in one of the traditional crafts (and weaving is a traditional craft here), you must be a master craftsman (or woman) in order to be legally allowed to sell your work. To become a master craftsman, you must first have an apprenticeship (usually three years) and first become a journeyman in your craft. You then work (for a master craftsman) for a while to gather experience before then completing a master-piece and passing a test to be a master of your craft. Then you can sell your products on your own (and not through a master craftsman). Selling products before you are a master can get you into trouble – and maybe even earn you a juicy fine!
Admittedly, the danger of being fined for selling woven goods was probably never very great – mainly because hand-weaving is sort of a dying craft. But somehow the idea was still intimidating and discouraging, so I concentrated more on patchwork and quilting, since these are not traditional German crafts and are, therefore, not regulated by the laws concerning crafts.
I kept on weaving, as a hobby, but it was no longer my main emphasis – there just isn‘t enough time to actively follow all the textile crafts I am interested in. My smaller loom (I have two looms) had been without a warp for at least the last 2 years – and an empty loom is a sad sight indeed. Then about two weeks ago, I invited our entire local quilters group over for a farewell party for one of our members who was moving (more about this when I find the time....). And for some reason, I just couldn‘t bear the idea of covering the empty loom with a sheet (my friend‘s suggestion). I wanted the loom to be warped! I had three warps that I had already measured (then put in a box) and I decided to use one of them – a striped wool warp in gray and light purple. I had measured that warp so long ago that I no longer had any idea what my plans for it were. I did find a sheet of paper that I had made notes on...but the ink had faded (gives you an idea of how long it had been around!) so it was no longer entirely legible. No matter – a well-measured warp should be able to stand the test of time, and wool is generally fairly forgiving, so I started in.
Not only was the warp itself old, I was also kind of out of the weaving habit, and things that would have been routine back when I did more weaving required a little extra time and consideration. But I did it! I got my loom warped and even wove a few inches (so it wouldn‘t be quite so obvious that I had just started) before my guests arrived.
In my stash (actually, I have several – fabrics, knitting yarns, weaving yarns, etc.) I found wool Swedish weaving yarns in a weight (7/2 for anyone who might be interested) and colors that went with my warp. The length of the warp was one of the bits of information that had faded so I wasn‘t sure how much weft I needed. The best idea seemed to be to use several colors – and to use them evenly in narrow weft stripes – so that is what I did. Considering that the design process was more or less by guess and by golly, I must admit that I‘m quite pleased with the results.
I‘m really enjoying weaving again! I try to weave at least 30 minutes a day and the weaving goes fast, so I just might have some nice handwoven wool yardage before too long. And what will I do with it? I have no idea yet – I don‘t even know how much yardage I will have because I don‘t know how the long the warp was, remember? Right now I‘m kind of hoping that it is enough for a light wool jacket...but time will tell and it will be the reason for another blog entry when it does.

Here you can get a good idea of the striped warp and the 4-color weft stripe
repeat (dark blue, wine red, heathery purple, and dark pink). I haven't the
faintest recollection of why the right side of the warp is solid gray. Did I run
out of light purple for the stripes? Was the gray stripe supposed to work
like a "weight" at the hem edge of a garment? Your guess is as good as mine!
By the way, the feet belong to the photographer.

A close up of the fabric so that you can see that it is a straight 2/2 twill weave
and also see the stripes a little better. As you can also see, I'm weaving it
fairly open. The idea is that this type of yarn is made expecially for weaving
and fulls nicely (fingers crossed!) the first time it is washed.




